The 2012 collection of Corum is mainly focussed on the Admiral's Cup
with new complications joining the line. Good news for me, I like it.
Honestly, I'm quite impressed by the new strategy of
the brand: prices are more realistic and they start to take advantage
of the good asset brought by the Admiral's Cup case. This case seems to
be the Royak Oak of Corum if you see what I
mean.
Last year, I liked the Admiral's Cup small
second with caliber ETA2895: I found it was a worthy and affordable way
to enter Corum collection. In 2012, new Admiral's Cup line is broadening
with an impressive range of complication:
- a Tourbillon with
micro-rotor
- an annual calendar
- a
chronograph
- a mystery moon for the
ladies
Let's start with the Tourbillon which is my
fav novelty.
This Admiral's Cup Tourbillon contains all what makes
the Admiral Cup so special: the nautical pennants indexes, the
twelve-sided bezel, the crown protector, the frange... if the small
second watch was a bit unbalanced, it is not the case with the
Tourbillon: the caliber is perfect for the case diameter (42mm) and so
the Tourbillon bridge (which shape is inspired by the pennants) is very
well located. It is hollowed in order to give a wide view on the 12mm
tourbillon carriage. A real joy for our
eyes.
Surprisingly, the addition of the Tourbillon
works very well in the context of this watch inspired by the
nautical sports.
By turning over the watch, we
discover the unusual movement coming from La Fabrique du Temps. Its
micro-rotor creates an original lay-out. I will not say that the
finishings are outstandings: they are not especially on the micro-rotor
very impressive. But on the other end, the sober style of the finishings
enhances the beauty of the architecture of the movement. I love this
17mm micro-rotor and the large Tourbillon bridge. Movement frequency is
3hz and its power reserve is 60 hours.
The annual
production of the Admiral's Cup Tourbillon will be limited to 15 watches
in PG, 30 in PG/SS and 75 in SS. I understood that the price of the SS
version will be very affordable for such contents (the Tourbillon is not
a mere Tourbillon: again, it is a micro-rotor one). Expect a price
around 45K euros. But of course, this has to be confirmed.
Another surprise was to discover
the Annual
Calendar. It is quite funny to consider that this
complication was more or less available only at one or two brands
several years ago and that today it is becoming more and more spread. It
is actually a good way to propose a calendar complication with a price
much lower than the Perpetual Calendar.
The Annual
Calendar uses a 42mm case available in SS or PG. The lay-out of the dial
is logical and clever. Months are displayed by a tiny hand like it was a
small second. Date is displayed around the dial thanks to a ring by the
frange. The watch features a big central second hand. Movement
performances are classic (4hz, 42 hours of power
reserve).
A very balanced watch which seduced me
thanks to its useful complication, the finishings of the dial and of the
case. I don't know where the Annual Calendar module comes
from.
Admiral's Cup Chronograph is less surprising, the
complication being almost logical here. 42mm case is
available in PG, PG/SS or SS. I found the dial less balanced than the
previous two watches but the designers worked well to reduce this
feeling thanks to the indexes. If you add the three types of dial (grey,
charcoal grey or blue), you get a wide range of chronographs. Please
note that the movement is COSC certified (4hz, 42 hours of power
reserve).
Ladies' were not forgotten with a
very charming watch: the Admiral's Cup Mystery Moon. Why mystery? Because
the whole dial is rotating: it is not the date disk which does a
revolution but the dial. Obviously the section dedicated to the
Moonphases display does the same as it is located in front of
the date window. The sunburst finishings of the Indonesian MOP are
really beautiful and contribute to the beauty of the timepiece. Stars of
the Moonphases display are gems set. Case diameter is 38mm and is
available only in SS. Movement has a 4hz frequency and 42 hours of power
reserve.
Corum also introduced during the Fair
evolution of existing models like this two tones of the Admiral's
Cup small second (very appealing and elegant for a sportive
watch) and for people who like high contrast several rubber straps of
colours for the black chronograph. A daring watch for
sure!
I would like to finish the report with the
yearly "back to the past" move by Corum. This year, after the previous
Grand Precis, Corum chose to re-launch the Chargé d'Affaires alarm watch. This watch was
originaly created in 1956 and the purpose of the Alarm was to help you
not to miss your appointments (so the name of the
watch).
If the dial design and the Schild movement
are very classic, Corum had a strange idea to add this kind of big
bridge over the movement. It brings depth but well... I think I would
have preferred the watch without. This watch will lead to the usual
comments: some will think that nothing will replace the Vintage watches
and other will be happy to enjoy this old style with a newly made
timepiece. But they will pay the price for that. We will have the same
discussions than with the Grand Precis...
Anyway, this last watch is nicely made and
after all, it doesn't change my overall feeling of the 2012 collection:
Admiral's Cup line is now the keystone of the collection as the
addition of new complications gives the proof of this
strategy.
Sadly, I couldn't shoot any new
Ti-Bridge.
I would like to thank a lot the Corum
staff for the time they dedicated to
me.
Fr.Xavier