MTF[PuristS]
13383
Baselworld 2010: Nivrel
Apr 19, 2010,03:22 AM
Baselworld 2010: Nivrel
by Marcus Hanke
When the "quartz crisis" hit the Swiss and German watch industries in the late seventies/early eighties, most markets collapsed, since the majority of customers preferred the much less expensive and complicated quartz watches, mostly from Japanese production. For many companies this was the death verdict, but they did not realize it, until they went bankrupt several years later. Before that, most of them fought against the inevitable, but were only able to delay their decline. On the foremost frontline, this era was marked by the relentless efforts of a few distribution and service agents, that tried to keep alive the customers' interest in mechanical watches. Among them were Gerd Rüdiger Lang, who was first responsible for the service of Heuer timepieces in Germany, but with the foundation of his own watch label "Chronoswiss" became a visionary of horology in a time of common depression.
Another one of these "warriors for horology" was Gerd Hofer, long-time distribution agent for the watch brands Milus, Kelek and Revue Thommen in Germany. When these companies were either sold, dissolved or whithering away (Milus was sold to an investor from Hong Kong, Kelek became Breitling's development center, and Revue Thommen - well, this would be story all by itself), Hofer, descendant from an old family of goldsmiths, decided to found his own watch label, "Nivrel".
The fairytale-like renaissance of the mechanical watch in the late nineties has to be credited also to people like Hofer and Lang, and their tireless efforts. After Hofer's sudden death in 2008, his daughter Anja took over the control over Nivrel, together with her spouse Guido Grohmann.
Nivrel did not achieve the status of Lang's Chronoswiss. From the beginning, the label concentrated less on distinct and expensive timepieces, but on timelessly designed, "pure" and affordable watches. Hofer's dogma was to offer watches equipped with everything that makes sense and is necessary, but without accessories that only increase the costs. For example, the crystals on the top were always made from scratch-proof sapphire, while those on the bottom still are mineral crystal, since these areas are protected by the skin of the wrist, and even when a few minor scratches might occur, they are barely disturbing during the daily use.
With his golden watches, Hofer supplied cheaper gold-plated tang buckles, with a reason: He observed that, when replacing the used leather straps on their watches, many owners also threw away the buckles with the old straps, expecting to get a new buckle with the new strap. Therefore, he demanded a surcharge for buckles made from solid gold. "Goods are respected only if they cost something", Hofer used to say.
Nivrel earned a very good reputation for its clean designs and interesting complications, which were a result of the long cooperation with Kelek and Dubois-Dépraz. Nivrel's finest piece is the selfwinding five minutes-repeater, which sounds exceptionally well. A limited number of them are adorned with additional automatons and mythical figures, all meticulously hand-enchased from gold by goldsmiths in the traditional workshop, led by Anja Hofer's brother Sven. These highly unique pieces also mark the exception in the otherwise very pleasant Nivrel price list.
By the way, the new, bi-lingual catalogue book is a joy to read and offers interesting insights into the history and work of a small, family-owned watchbrand in Germany. Just demand your copy.
This year, Nivrel's novelties are representative of a general trend seen at the 2010 Basel fair: Watch manufacturers tend to offer more classically designed and decently sized timepieces, without having to spend too much funds on new and ambitious technical developments. The financial crisis left its traces in the company's balances. Regarding the size, however, Nivrel is in a similar position as Patek Philippe: Traditionally, its watches are rather small, with the men's watches having around 37 to 39mm diameter. Therefore, "decently sized" here means an increase to 40, resp. 42mm.
The "Héritage Grand Chronographe", offered with either a ETA-Valjoux 7750, or its full-calendar counterpart 7751, features a 42mm steel case and a dial made from German silver, finished with a Paris hobnail pattern.
The "Héritage Grande Automatique" is the modern interpretation of Gerd Hofer's typical Nivrel: a nicely finished Soprod A10 movement, developed to replace the ETA 2892, and with excellent reputation for reliability and accuracy, in a soberly designed 40mm case.
For the ladies, the "Héritage Bijoux La Grande Date" features an ETA 2892, modified with big date and small second.
Finally, here is a special variant of the "La Grande Manuelle", a very attractive hand-winding watch, equipped with an ETA Unitas 6498-1, that is modified with a gold-plated balance wheel with screws, and a blued swan-neck regulator.
EDITORS' NOTE
Nivrel is almost like a niche brand like the old Union Glashuette with limited distribution. Apart from appearances in annual watch compilations and, of course, Marcus's reports from Basel, we would not know of the brand. I've never seen a retail outlet with this brand.
Their design philosophy, size and aesthetic seem eminently acceptable. The somewhat purist idea that "Goods are respected only if they cost something", appeals to me!
The "Héritage Grande Automatique" and "La Grande Manuelle" are my favourites......other brands should look at them for inspiration with regards to clean dial design and case size.
Melvyn Teillol-Foo