This year was my first visit at the Longines booth and I couldn't choose
a better moment to do it! Longines is celebrating its 180th anniversary
with a wide range of commemorative models. Actually, two collections
were presented at Baselworld:
- The 180th Anniversary
collection
- The Saint-Imier
collection.
Taking advantage to its long
and rich history for the aesthetical approach of its new models,
Longines clearly chose the neo-retro strategy to create its 2012
watches. In terms of horological contents, it is obviously not the great
come-back of Longines as a prestigious Manufacture but well, the
increasing share of the presence of exclusive calibers like the L788
(monopusher) or the L688.2 is a good move.
Let's
start to browse the watches I was able to see with the 4 models of th
180th Anniversary collection.
I will not put in place
a false suspense: the first watch I present you was my fav of the 2012
offer.
This Column-Wheel Monopusher Chronograph 180th Anniversary Limited
Edition (I hope they will find a shorter name) is really an
exquisite timepiece. Its design finds its roots in the first wrist
chronograph created by Longines in 1913. The case is very well made and
the moving lugs are a nice detail. You will notice the red 12, faithful
to the original watch. Please note that the dial is not an enamel one.
The dial is beautiful but sadly the date window spoils its pure design.
This watch without a date display would have been a true hit. What a
pity.
Caliber used is the exclusive L788 and I
understand it is a monopusher evolution of the
L688.2.
This watch will be available in PG only in a
LE of 180 watches.
Longines kept exploring its past with a
LE of 180 pocket
watches which use handwind movement L878. Again, they are
inspired by the first pocket watches created by Auguste Agassiz. Like
with the Monopusher Chronograph, the dial is not an enamel one but a
white lacquered one. I like its colour by the way. Sadly, I couldn't
open the watch in order to shoot the movement. I regret it because I
like the lay-out of the L878.
The two other watches of the 180th
Anniversary collection are
Ladies' watches. First one, la Grande Classique has a 29mm case and its bezel
is set with 180 diamonds. Diamonds are used are hours
indexes.
The PG cas one has a 25,5mm case and again,
its bezel is set with 180 diamonds. Both watches have MOP
dials.
Let's visit the St-Imier collection now. All
the watches from this collection share in common a case with sleek
lines, a rather big height and quite prominent lugs. It is
maybe too big and too thick to be really elegant but I liked this subtle
mix of personality and of refinement.
2012 is the
Chronograph year for Longines, at least that's my feeling. A wide range
of the St-Imier
Chronograph is available: PG or SS or PG/SS cases, black or
white dials, 39 or 41mm diameters. Difficult not to find the most
situable one! Movement is the exclusive column-wheel L688.2 caliber
which was exclusively developped by ETA for
Longines.
Do
you remember the Longines Master Retrograde and its guilloché dial? So here it
comes again but this time in the context of the St-Imier and I think it
is a good improvement. I never liked the guilloché dial which looked
very cheap. This time, things are improved with a smooth dial and nice
figures. A true relief for me. Movement is the L707 which was also
developped exclusively by ETA for Longines and which was previously used
in the Master Retrograde. Case diameter is 44mm. Due to the shape of
the case, the watch looks very big on the
wrist.
A three-hands watch is also available in the
collection in 4 different cases (26,30, 38,5 and 41mm). They all house
an automatic movement, there isn't any quartz movement in the St-Imier
collection, a good symbol of the new Longines
ambition.
I would like to thank a lot the Longines
team for the warm welcome.
Fx