Pre-SIHH 2014 : Roger Dubuis Hommage: a tribute to Fine Watchmaking

Jan 01, 2014,00:00 AM
 

The Hommage collection was first launched in 1995 at the time of the company’s founding, as a distinctive means of paying homage to generations of watchmakers, as well as to the noble horological traditions they faithfully perpetuate. It is currently experiencing a sweeping revival fully unveiled with a 2014 range that cements its place at the heart of the Roger Dubuis universe.

Symbolically speaking, the Hommage collection represents the fifth element radiating throughout the brand range: Incredible Mechanics. It is the quintessence around which the four Roger Dubuis worlds of the Warrior, the Player, the Venturer and the Diva – which respectively inspire the Excalibur, La Monégasque, Pulsion and Velvet collections – naturally gravitate. The Hommage collection pays tribute to these Incredible Mechanics, to the expertise and the proud horological traditions governing Roger Dubuis.

The SIHH 2014 will witness the introduction of a stunning series of Hommage watches capturing the very essence of classical horology. They also encapsulate the spirit of the visionary watchmaker who founded the company and humbly wished to honour his horological forefathers and the art they uphold. “A watch has always been an emotional object for me”, explains Mr Roger Dubuis. “In my youth, I was fascinated by those luminous dials that made me dream. My watchmaking journey began with the steeple of my village church and walking past the clock on the tower. That is how I fell madly in love with horological mechanisms. Having founded the Manufacture Roger Dubuis in 1995, I decided I wanted to create a watch to thank my teachers, friends and all those who had helped me learn and perfect my art. The result was aptly named Hommage. What touches me about the new Hommage collection is that it is created by a new generation, while maintaining the same initial spirit of gratitude to our forebears.” A true perfectionist by nature, Mr Roger Dubuis scrutinises the new Hommage timepieces and unequivocally acknowledges: “they are indeed simply perfect”.

Revisited and reinterpreted in a neo-classical vein, the timepieces in the Hommage Collection regroup the entire genetic heritage of Roger Dubuis. Like the master-watchmaker who gave life to this collection, the latter is endowed not only with style but also with a powerful character. The Hommage collection tells a story: that of its founder, Mr Roger Dubuis. It offers a chance to discover the creative talent of the man who in 1995 embarked upon an adventure that is unique in the watchmaking world. It portrays an exceptional personality who instigated the policy of earning Poinçon de Genève certification for the entire Roger Dubuis production. It serves as the custodian of his spirit of innovation and his quest for reliability. Vividly embodying the master-watchmaker’s wealth of experience, inherited from all those who have preceded him and admirably perpetuated by the current generation at work within Roger Dubuis, this collection gives rise to creations that will make their mark on horological history.

The collection focuses on traditional Fine Watchmaking movements and on craftsmanship skills such as guilloché work, enamelling and mother-of-pearl. Featuring classic designs made in precious materials and frequently issued in limited editions, the models in the Hommage collection embody a blend of aesthetic refinement and traditional watchmaking codes. Dedicated to Fine Watchmaking enthusiasts in search of excellence, they all proudly bear Mr Roger Dubuis’ signature on the case-back.

Other stellar Roger Dubuis timepieces at the SIHH 2014 will include the titanium DLC version of the groundbreaking Excalibur Quatuor, as well as a dazzling Velvet Haute Joaillerie creation. Each of the timepieces embodies another facet of Roger Dubuis’ unswerving commitment to excellence, as vividly illustrated in its 100% Poinçon de Genève-certified production.

The SIHH is a pivotal event at the start of each year that provides a unique showcase in which Roger Dubuis delights in displaying both its latest creations and in revealing fresh facets of its richly complex and sophisticated nature. This year’s edition, dedicated to the Hommage collection, will bring another opportunity to step into a place beyond time pervaded by an infinitely timely theme – embodying exactly the kind of visual and conceptual paradox on which Roger Dubuis thrives!



Honouring the founding father with the Tribute to Mr Roger Dubuis






Wheels within wheels, a tribute within a set of tributes, rendering to Caesar that which is Caesar’s. In presenting this newly revived Hommage collection dedicated to watchmaking excellence, Roger Dubuis sensed that it was only natural and fitting to pay a special tribute to Mr Roger Dubuis himself, both as founder of the company and as the inventor and creator of the first Hommage model in 1995. The Hommage Tribute to Mr. Roger Dubuis admirably showcases the creative flair for watch movements tirelessly cultivated within the Manufacture. Its RD540 calibre powering a tourbillon, large date and power-reserve display is magnificently framed by a pink gold case and highlighted by subtle design details that reinterpret supremely classical design codes. Mr. Roger Dubuis, the founder and ‘soulmaker’ of the Manufacture, continues to play a key inspirational role and his exchanges with Gregory Bruttin and the other members of the R&D team are of crucial importance. This quintessentially elegant new timepiece represents a glowing personal tribute to the man who first introduced the collection in homage to his forebears and to his art.


Hommage gears up for impressive performances in a pink gold chronograph interpretation






Roger Dubuis pursues its self-appointed task of reinterpreting the codes of classicism with a strikingly handsome chronograph that stands out boldly within a highly competitive field. Among the range of additional horological functions, the chronograph falls firmly in the category of so-called “useful complications” and is currently more popular than ever in an age dedicated to the cult of performance and sporting accomplishments. This pink gold chronograph model is powered by its very own ‘Incredible Mechanics’ in the shape of the RD680 movement with micro-rotor – a signature of the Manufacture Roger Dubuis movement expertise dedicated to ensuring excellent performance and optimising manufacturing processes. The back of the case is engraved with the signature of Mr Roger Dubuis. The distinctive shapes of bridges, springs and levers are all distinctive features of Roger Dubuis movements, and the 261 parts are all individually hand-finished to the standards of uncompromising excellence demanded by the Poinçon de Genève.

The snailed chronograph counters at 6 and 9 o’clock, complemented by a sweep seconds hand, bear eloquent testimony to the enduring strength of traditional watchmaking as applied to the modern task of accurate timekeeping. The concave bezel juxtaposed with the high flange bearing applied five-minute markers extending the raised applied Roman numerals and subtly lowered centre, all combine to create a mesmerising impression of depth and multiple layers. The latter is in turn further emphasised by the audacious sunray guilloché dial motif – which itself echoes the radiating arrangement of the numerals and is picked up on the crown surface. Such intricately interwoven aesthetic elements admirably reflect the complexity of the movement within. ?

State-of-the-art watchmaking expertise meets traditional craftsmanship






Guilloché is a classic decorative technique based on an exquisitely repetitive motif that is often regarded as a symbol of fine watchmaking. As one has come to expect from Roger Dubuis, it is given an inimitable design twist calling for exceptional workmanship typical of the concern for details characterising the Manufacture. As delicate as it is precise and exuding an aura of technical sophistication and aesthetic charm, the dial is extremely complex to create and takes between 20 to 50 minutes to be entirely engraved with this pattern.

True to its custom of lending a contemporary touch to tradition, Roger Dubuis also plays with a blend of tone on tone and contrasting colours between the bezel, railway track flange and guilloché pattern, as well as the chronograph counters, markings and numerals. These design elements typical of classical watchmaking, yet reinterpreted in a contemporary manner expressing the unique Roger Dubuis vision of its art, are designed to facilitate reading the indications as well as to enhance visual appeal. The eminently virile character of this chronograph with its boldly rectangular chronograph pushers and decisively ridged crown is subtly softened by the warmth of the pink gold, the beautifully rounded curves and the delicately leaf-shaped counterweight on the sweep seconds hand.

Clasped firmly yet gently to the wrist by a brown genuine alligator leather strap secured by a pink gold pin buckle, the Hommage Chronograph in pink gold lives up to a proud heritage while propelling it firmly towards the future. Short-time measurement has seldom looked so good.





Velvet welcomes a stunning new diva





The Velvet collection is a hymn in praise of charm and poetry, an expression of discreet but genuine luxury that enhances femininity with a dash of daring spirit. The confident elegance of a dazzling model introduced in a stunning new version featuring two cushion-cut rubies effectively reinforces the highly successful charm of the collection. The Velvet Haute Joaillerie interpretation conveys in a particularly vivid manner the intrinsically passionate nature of the Diva spirit pervading the entire collection. The constant appearance of the word “daring” in the history of Roger Dubuis indicates how determined the Geneva watchmaker is to avoid monotony at all costs. The Velvet collection demonstrates this brilliantly. It shows that a line can be synonymous with elegance and luxury together with a delightful feeling of misbehaving. Its models include strong, easily identifiable creations that define the codes of an alternative femininity and bring a new energy to watchmaking. These creations will always be associated with the world of the Diva.

The Velvet collection owes its special aura partly to the original design. With highly graphic dials in relief on two levels, elongated Roman numerals, and symbolic attachments that allow the bracelet to flow naturally from the 36 mm case, the timepieces playfully revisit the Roger Dubuis codes with a new sophistication. A round/barrelshaped trompe l’oeil case together with charismatic power create an audacious style. Precious touches caress the curves, another strong point of the collection. Behind its inspiring design, its precious materials and the vibrant spirit it radiates, beats a strong mechanical heart. With its commitment to maximising reliability, Roger Dubuis has fitted this line with a latest-generation calibre, the RD821 mechanical movement with automatic winding. Designed, developed and perfected in-house, it has been produced according to the purest traditions of watchmaking. Decorated with “Côtes de Genève” it comprises 172 beautifully hand-finished components, runs at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz) and has a 48-hour power reserve. To complete its ultrademanding approach, Roger Dubuis submits its movements and timepieces to a leading independent control authority. As a result, every model in the Velvet collection is stamped with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève.

The unmistakable aura of elegant, glamorous femininity





The 36 mm white gold Velvet Haute Joaillerie is full-paved with diamonds and bears testimony to the unrivalled expertise and uncompromising excellence cultivated by Roger Dubuis. It is a magic blend of technicality and preciousness, with 304 diamonds (11.13 cts). Cut to measure to perfectly match the aesthetic requirements, the diamonds are baguette-cut on the dial, case-band and décor, and brilliant-cut on the flange. Completing this truly exceptional piece, 2 also specially cut 0.52-carat cushion rubies create a stunning décor and, as a final touch, the folding clasp also radiates the fire of 30 diamonds totalling 0.75 carats. Rubies are one of the most prestigious and rare precious stones and are considered to symbolise love, victory and success. Like all gems used by Roger Dubuis, the deep-red rubies are carefully selected upon strict criteria of cut, clarity, colour and origin. They therefore contribute to making this timepiece even more unique – especially since these natural stones are non-heated, meaning particularly rare and precious.


Even the finest stones cannot release their full fire if they are not quite literally set to their best advantage in a manner magnifying each gem. Showcasing the considerable jewellery expertise cultivated by Roger Dubuis, this outstanding creation features no less than three different types of setting. The traditional invisible-type setting on the centre and caseband conceals the gold between the stones and ensures a firm focus on their uniquely sparkling radiance. The claw-setting around the cushion-cut diamonds features prongs hand-made by a goldsmith and four claws enabling the stone to stand out prominently above the rest of the piece. Finally, the Haute-Couture red textured-satin strap lend an even more exclusive and refined touch. Since a genuine satin strap is by nature delicate and fragile, the model also comes with an additional satin-finish fabric strap enabling clients to wear their timepiece on a daily basis.

This stunning timepiece is available exclusively on request in Roger Dubuis Boutiques. The unmistakable aura of elegant, glamorous femininity, together with the sheer sparkle of its exquisite gems, place it resolutely in the world of the irrevocably and irresistibly passionate Diva.


Roger Dubuis invites visitors to step inside a unique 21st century mechanical feast with the latest amazing experience of its incredible universe.





Left brain, right brain; a retro-future state of mind; a tribute to inventors juxtaposed with mad scientists; fascinatingly creative movements flirting with style effects; new technologies versus puddled iron and brass… Once again Roger Dubuis will amaze visitors of the SIHH with an unique booth concept created for the re-launch of the “Hommage” collection: a tribute to traditional watchmaking through a modern expression born of a rich combination of mechanical beauty and organic creativity inspired by the post-industrial era and steampunk.

The SIHH is a pivotal event at the start of each year that provides a unique showcase in which Roger Dubuis delights in displaying both its latest creations and in revealing fresh facets of its richly complex and sophisticated nature. This year’s edition, dedicated to the Hommage collection, will bring another opportunity to step into a place beyond time pervaded by an infinitely timely theme – embodying exactly the kind of visual and conceptual paradox on which Roger Dubuis thrives!

A theatrical set pushing the boundaries of storytelling
Any encounter with the effervescent personality of Alvaro Maggini, an individual with clearly highly developed left and right hemispheres who serves as Creative Director for Roger Dubuis, is bound to be a memorable experience. His ability to sweep listeners up into a dream world, imbued with the values of the Manufacture and yet firmly rooted in its daily reality, is a reflection of the incredible visual universe he is dedicated to creating and portraying.




Alvaro Maggini, Creative Director of Roger Dubuis.

With Roger Dubuis, he has discovered a passion for providing theatrical stage-settings in which to present its various worlds, and the opportunity to portray that of the Hommage collection – which he regards as the ‘fifth element’ permeating each of the other four worlds – has clearly inspired him to further flights of imaginative fancy. As he reflected on this collection dedicated to the beating heart of watchmaking, the movement, the booth’s concept naturally took shape in his mind as a magnificent representation of ‘Incredible Mechanics’ in its most organic, vibrant form. Likewise, the decision to offer a steampunk interpretation of this theme stemmed naturally from the Hommage collection’s firm focus on fine workmanship skills such as its distinctive sunray guilloché work.

As in creating Roger Dubuis Boutiques, when it comes to creating a booth at an event such as the SIHH, Alvaro Maggini’s background in advertising helps him fully grasp the importance of inviting visitors to step into a complete world and of telling them a story capable of firing their own imagination. Such a set design enables them to get a sense of becoming actors on a stage that literally springs to life to provide live performances that are imbued with an unmistakable identity and yet subtly modified by the interaction between people and products. This reflects what happens between a watch and its owner when it is actually worn.

Inspirational tribute to fine watchmaking

As well as being inspirational, the SIHH booth plays an educational role by offering a fascinating vision of the ties between past, present and future. It does so in an extremely graphic and visually appealing manner by linking the findings of some of the greatest historical inventors with the equally inventive ways in which Roger Dubuis applies such scientific and horological principles to modern-day watchmaking.




Hommage Chronograph in pink gold






Case: Ø 42mm, pink gold
Mr Roger Dubuis signature engraved on the back

Dial: Guilloché, Pink gold Roman numerals appliques, Snailed chronograph counters at 6 and 9 o’clock, Silver and charcoal grey background, Black and white transfers, Charcoal grey flange, White minute-circle, Poinçon de Genève, Swiss made inscriptions and Roger Dubuis logo transfers, Pink gold appliques

Water resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)

Strap: Brown strap, genuine alligator

Clasp: Pink gold adjustable folding buckle

Movement: Self-winding movement, RD680

Production: No limitation

Certification: Poinçon de Genève


RD680 Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement with micro-rotor, 13¾’’’, 42 jewels, finely adjusted in five positions, rhodium-plated, “Côtes de Genève” decoration.









Specific features: Double-pusher column-wheel chronograph, central chronograph hand, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, hours and minutes.

Number of parts: 261
Height: 6.30 mm
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Power-reserve: 52 hours



Velvet Haute Joaillerie





Case: Ø 36mm, white gold
Fully paved with 136 baguette-cut diamonds (5.99 cts) Decor set with 2 cushion-cut rubies (2x 0.51 ct approx.)

Dial: Fully paved with 136 baguette-cut diamonds (4.15 cts) - invisible setting, Flange set with 64 brillantcut diamonds (0.24 ct), Roger Dubuis logo metallised on the sapphire-glass.

Gemstones: 304 diamonds (136 on the case, 64 on the flange, 136 on the dial and 30 on the clasp) 2 rubies on the decor

Carats: 12.15 cts approx.

Water resistance: 3 BAR (30 m)

Strap: Genuine red textured satin strap also delivered with a black satin-finish fabric

Clasp: White gold adjustable folding buckle set with 30 baguette-cut diamonds (0.75 ct)

Movement: Self-winding movement, RD821

Production: No limitation but produced on request

Certification: Poinçon de Genève


RD821 Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement, 11½’’’, 33 jewels, Finely adjusted in five position, Rhodium-plated, “Côtes de Genève” decoration.









Specific features: Hours and minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock.
Number of parts: 172
Height: 3.43 mm
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Power-reserve: 48 hours







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