foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814
Baselworld 2014: hands on review of the Stepan Sarpaneva K1 "Emali"
I discovered the K1 "Emali" in its stainless-steel version at the 2013
SalonQP. I have to confess that I was not very seduced at that time
because I found it too quiet to fully match the traditional universe of
Stepan Sarpaneva which is enchanting and quirky, almost mysterious and
melancholic. The K1 "Emali", to my eyes, seemed to lack contrast and
spice what was a bit paradoxical when we know the boldness of its
creator. At the 2014 Baselworld Fair, Stepan Sarpaneva presented a Pink
Gold version and I changed my mind. With the new case material and a
more enhancive presentation of the indexes, the K1 "Emali" converts
itself, as if by magic, as a very seducing watch.
I
think that my first surprise was due to the rendering of the white
enamel dial which was flawless but which was giving
to the watch un feeling of uniformity if not monotony when compared with
the usual gratings which decorate the dials of Stepan's watches. I was a
bit lost in front of this unexpected sobriety. The K1 "Emali" in its PG
version finds however a more satisfying balance between the originality
of the style of the Finnish watchmaker and the discretion and
simplicity which are required by this 3 hands
watch.
The use of Pink Gold has two
advantages. The first one enhances the specific shape of the Korona case
which has a 42mm diameter. Taking into account its curves, its short
and curved lugs, at any moment the Pink Gold doesn't seem to be too
present or too ostentatious. On the contrary, it brings its touch of
warmth. The second one involves highlighting the quality of the
finishings of the enamel dial. The specific colour of the dial, its
purety, its immaculate rendering without any logo or writing take
advantage of the contrast with the case colour and with the two hands.
The full watch appears as very harmonious and quiet without being boring
because Stepan worked to avoid this trap. He managed to acheive this
objective thanks to the presence of the big second hand which animates
the dial and also through the indexes which are visually more present
than on the Stainless Steel version.
I think that at
the end, the indexes explain why I changed my mind about this K1
"Emali". With just a detail, a small detail, our perception can change.
The indexes are created thanks to a kind of peripheral ring in steel and
in two parts, the lower part symbolizing the inception of the grating
(not present here). On the Stainless Steel version, these two parts have
the same colour. But on the pictured watch, the lower part gets a blue
coating which gives to the indexes a nice two-coloured style. The
structure of the indexes is more visible and they become more
perceptible on the dial without spoiling the elegant simplicity of the
latter. The use of this technic for the indexes is clever: they suggest
the presence of the grating and our mind imagines
it.
I also like a lot the small
touches of blue which decorate and brighten up the dial without
disturbing the chromatic balance. Moreover, the contrast between the
blue and the Pink Gold makes me think about the fight between fire and
ice. There are very often references to the Elements in Stepan's watches
because he loves to play with these natural and astral references.
As usual, the K1 "Emali" is powered by the Soprod
A10 movement modified by Stepan Sarpaneva wich features a 4hz frequency
and a power reserve of 42 hours. The winding rotor gives the opportunity
to find again the enigmatic moon and the characteristic grating. It is
one of the key points of interest of the K1 "Emali": thanks to its
elegance and its quiet rendering (but with character!), it gives the
proof that Stepan Sarpaneva can explore new
territories.
At the end, I
consider that the K1 "Emali" deserves consideration and interest because
it reinterprets the simple 3 hands watch with a lot of care to details
and with the subtle dose of originality. The aesthetic signature of
Stepan Sarpaneva is clearly visible thanks to the case, the indexes, the
hands. By the way, the name is very discreetly written on the flange,
just to say that this writting was not mandatory. This is another detail
that gives the proof that the quest for the purest style led Stepan
Sarpaneva in the creation process of this bright watch. The only regret I
have by observing this watch is that, maybe, it should have deserved a
handwing movement due to its elegant style. But at least, the automatic
movement gives the opportunity to see the spinning Moon on the back of
the watch. So, it is not a deep regret...
I would like to
point out that the K1 "Emali" is made on demand and of it can
be of course personalized: for example, the two-coloured indexes can be
used also with the Stainless Steel version.
Thanks to
Stepan Sarpaneva for his warm
welcome.
Pros:
+ an original interpretation
of a three hands watch
+ the purety of the enamel
dial
+ the two-coloured indexes
+ the discreet writing
of the name
Cons:
- maybe I would have
preferred a handwind movement in this
context
Baselworld 2014: hands on review of the Stepan Sarpaneva K1 "Emali"
