Bifrost is the brand new collection
from the duo Johan Gustafsson and Patrik Sjögren. It symbolizes the
come-back of the use of an automatic movement but more importantly the
introduction of a new type of stainless damascus steel.
Bifrost is the name of the sacred rainbow bridge which creates
the link between the Earth and the Realm of the Gods in the Norse
Mythology. The question is to know if the watch meets the expectations
provoked by such name!
Like it is often the
case with any G&S, the aesthetics are the main point of
interest. The horological contents under the leadership of Patrik
Sjögren remains flawless and solid but its purpose is to create the
perfect context in order that Johan Gustafsson's talent can be
expressed. A G&S watch is before everything an invitation to a
journey, the feeling to travel in a distant land in where the lights
would play with our own perception to create mysterious and enigmatic
reflections.
This first watch
from the Bifrost collection offers a dial whose radiance and glare evoke
the blue nuances of thick ice. A G&S watch can be recognized at
first glance. The solid damascus steel dial embodies the unique and
inimitable style of Johan Gustafsson who, by working on it, by tempering
it converts it in a kaleidoscope. It is very difficult to describe the
rendering of such dial because it changes continuously according to the
light conditions and the position of the wrist. Even the central second
hand seems unnecessary in this context because the animation created by
the dial itself is enough. As for the indexes, they are faithful to the
recent production of G&S. I appreciate them a lot because they
give a kind of medieval touch to the watch.
However, the close
observation of the watch makes a change appear if we compare it to the
aesthetics to other G&S timepieces. Contrary to the Midnight Sun
or the Winter Nights on which the bezel pattern is highly visible and
seems to be a kind of extension of the dial, the Bifrost Isbla plays a
different tune. Johan Gustafsson introduces here a new stainless "high
contrast" damascus steel which has a very different rendering. It looks
almost like a mirror with sunrays finishings. Taking into account the
fact that the bezel pattern is smoother, thinner, the pattern of the
dial is more emphasized. The watch seems to be more refined because its
design looks visually lighter. I don't say that I prefer this style over
the the previous one as expressed on the Winter Nights watches. The
result is different. If I listen to my heart, I like a lot the dial
extension on the dial of the Winter Nights or Midnight Sun. The other
part of the Bifrost Isbla which is highlighted is the crown.
Since its pattern is very visible and due to its darker colour, the
crown offers a strong contrast with the bezel. I know that Johan
Gustafsson and Peter Sjögren are working on this to reduce this visual
gap. Its size will be reduced and it will be as shiny as possible
without losing friction.
The Bifrost Isbla is
powered by the Soprod A10 movement which has a 4hz frequency and a power
reserve of 42 hours. The movement is reliable (I find its winding
efficiency better than with the ETA2892-A2) and is specified to
chronometer grade. But the nicest surprise is found on the winding rotor
whose shape hides almost the whole caliber. The triple blade rotor uses
the same type of stainless "high contrast" damascus steel than the
casel. The pictured watch is a prototype and its final rendering will be
different than on the pictures (it is also the case of the caseback
whose finishings will be similar to the bezel ones). But the prototype
already gives us the opportunity to appreciate the beauty of this rotor
which is inspired by the celtic or nordic triskele. My only
regret on this side of the watch comes from the limited size of the
movement which is a bit too small for a 42,5mm case: the width of the
back bezel seems to smother the rotor and I would have loved to see the
later... more visually present.
Thanks to a more
contained size and a reasonable thickness (9,5mm), the Bifrost Isbla is a
watch which can be worn more easily than a Winter Nights or a Midnight
Sun. It creates a feeling of elegance, of sobriety while allowing to
take advantage of the mesmerizing character of the dial. As such, it
appears as an excellent compromises for collectors who want to discover
the specific world of Johan Gustafsson and of Patrik Sjögren whle
keeping a balanced context. I consider the Bifrost Isbla as a great
achievement because it embodies an interesting evolution of the
G&S style which becomes maybe more accessible but which keeps at
the same time its charm and its enchanting
side.
Thanks to Patrik
Sjögren for his warm welcome at
Baselworld.
Pros:
+ the more reasonable
diameter and thickness
+ the spectacular rendering of the
dial
+ the contraste between the bezel and the dial
+
the winding rotor design
Cons:
+ the
movement is a bit too small for the case size
+ the contrast
between the crown and the bezel is a bit too high but this gap will be
softened.