Basel 2008 Report: Jaquet Droz
By: Marcus Hanke (registered) Thursday, April 17th, 2008 - Photo Nav: View All 26 photo(s)Basel 2008 Report: Jaquet Droz
Text and pictures: Marcus Hanke
Text and pictures: Marcus Hanke
Jaquet Droz, well known for its highly elegant timepieces, surprised with its first sport watch, the so-called SUW (=Sports Utility Watch; hope it would not be affected when the first SUV-bans are passed in various cities!). While the dial shows the familiar Grande Seconde "8" layout, the highly elaborated stainless steel case has a diameter of 45mm. Various details, such as the skeletonized lugs, and the two clamps firmly holding the bezel on the case, are noteworthy and very well made. Watertightness is rated to 88 meters, a figure appearing weird at first, but typical for JD's care for even the tiniest detail: The "lucky 8" is the central number appearing in most JD watches, especially in the outlines of the Grande Seconde dials.
The dial, too, is interestingly finished with steel applications, that are polished and satinized. the hands feature luminous mass, also the three Arabian numerals in the intersection of the two subdials are luminous. A very nice watch, that requires some effort to keep it clean, due to all these edges and holes. However, it is not really thought for hardcore sports and dust-intensive workouts, more for the business man's casual wear.
An all-black Grande Seconde, with a red second hand and power reserve at 9. The case is made from black ceramic, looks stunning!
The Grande Seconde with black ceramic case and an anthracite dial: very stealthy!
The same, but with everything in white: case, dial, rubber strap. The most challenging task was to get the same tone of white from all three materials, in spite of their different reflection behaviour!
Here are both together: the black version appears to be a shadow, or a ghost image of the white one!
The Grande Seconde with power reserve and ivory enamel dial: limited to 88 pieces.
The "Grande Heure", a highly elegant, reduced watch with only a 24 hours hand. The time display permits accurate readings to the quarter hours, which is enough for most everyday situations - if you have time ...
Fascinating pieces, not only for the ladies: The twelve different pieces of the "Date Astrale Zodiaque" series each show a different stellar constellation from the zodiac. The unique part is that under the diamonds embedded into the dial there is SuperLuminova, which enlightens the diamonds in the dark. Also luminous is the symbol of the zodiac sign in the hour circle. Another diamond is marking the (retrograde) date. Diameter of the white gold case: 39mm, and therefore wearable for men, too.
Balance:
Twins:
The perpetual calendar with two retrograde indications (weekdays and date), with limited ivory enamel dial and pink gold case:
White gold case with limited black enamel dial (not easy to read, due to the polished hands):
The non-limited versions of the perpetual, in my opinion even more attractive and with better legibility, in pink and white gold:
The monopusher chronograph in pink and white gold:
The new tourbillon with power reserve and retrograde date. I am not convinced of that one. the power reserve and date scales deeply cut into the time subdial and destroy its otherwise plain and clean appearance. The date is completely illegible anyway, so why is it there?
Here, the displayback does not make much sense either.
The white gold version looks better, in my eyes. But still, I think the older tourbillon version without date and power reserve is the more beautiful watch.
I must admit to love this diamond version of the tourbillon: it sparkles and shines as if its life depends on it. 888 diamonds - only a detail-loving company like Jaquet Droz could think of it!
The really marvelous piece, however, was not shown publicly, but hidden under a cloth. Fortunately, Mr. Emch permitted me a glimpse, and what I saw may all the boyhood dreams when playing with my construction sets, come true: the piece in question is a "machine pouvant écrire le temps", or simply: "a time-writing machine". It was not easy for Mr. Emch to get me out of his office again, once I stood there, glued to the spot, mouth and eyes agape and gazing at the marvel. Up to now, the machine is still in early prototype state, but once it will be formally presented, I am sure you will share my feelings!
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