Baselworld/SIHH

Baselworld 2011: The big PuristSPro report -- Antoine Martin

 

While the brand “Antoine Martin” is absolutely new, the man behind it is already an oldtimer within the watch business: Martin Braun, developer and producer of complicated timepieces since thirty years, had earned an excellent reputation with the watches sold under his own name. Especially the “Eos” model, a watch with the astronomical display of sunrise and sunset, became his milestone piece.

What happened then, was a story that is almost typical for that industry: his further expansion was compromised by countless difficulties: to make suppliers accepting and executing orders for dials, cases, crystals etc. in the desired amount and quality, needs the power of a big group behind oneself, the same need dictates the search for new distributors, and so on. Consequently, Franck Muller’s Watchland-Group appeared to be the ideal partner, for which Martin Braun even relocated his production facility in 2007. However, the union proved to be rather unlucky, so Braun put the brakes on and left the group; leaving behind his company, his patents and above all, his brand name. In this respect he shared the fate of many other famous watchmakers, as Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth.

What was left with him was his long experience and inventiveness. Together with his new partner, Antoine Meier, Braun founded a new company in Switzerland, near Lucerne. The combiantion of their two forenames resulted in the new brand name, “Antoine Martin”.

At this year’s Basel fair, the newcomer brand already presented its first, very special piece: the model “Quantième Perpetuel QP01” is a perpetual calendar, based ona brand new and self developed and produced handwinding movement.




The movement cal. AM 39.001 has been developed by Braun, emphasizing aesthetic aspects as well as modern state-of-the-art technology. What fascinates me so much, is the dedicated tie with the traditional formula one of watchmaking, the observatory chronometers. Braun wanted a movement, sporting a large and relatively slow oscillating balance wheel, but that offers long-term accuracy and stability, by using modern materials and calculations.

This movement really deserves that I explain it in all aspects in a separate article, which is why I concentrate on the watch based on it right now.


Due to the large movement used, the QP01 is a very large watch. Indeed, its diameter of 46 mm might make it the largest perpetual calendar in the wristwatch market. Even IWC’s Portugieser perpetual is nearly two millimeters smaller.

While the first, apparently computer-originated illustrations showed a very busy dial design, the real piece in hand looks much less so. The various elements of the dials even harmonise with each other. However, the interaction of guilloche, stamped and embossed elements, visible screw heads and window frames need some time to get used to.


The calendar indications are rather orthodox, with a two disk big date at 6, cutout windows for weekday and month in the upper part of the dial, a day-/night-subdial at 9 and a leap year indication at 12. The only unconventional design is the vertical alignment of the weekday and month displays.



The massive case consists or more than 80 parts and does not rank behind the dial in terms of complexity. The caseback surprises by its sapphire cutout window, that only permits a view on the giant balance wheel with 17.5 mm diameter, the regulation mechanism, and a power reserve indication (six days). The rest of the movement hides behind a massive lid.


The perpetual calendar is offered in 18k white and pink gold, but there is also a black, DLC-coated steel variant. The latter has a more or less completely blackened dial, which does not really enhance its legibility, but serves the current fashion. Prices vary from 50,000 to 72,000  Swiss Franks.



Overall, though, this watch is certainly a great market entry for the brand Antoine Martin. Later this year, a version with a new selfwinding movement shall follow.

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