Baselworld 2011: The big PuristSPro report -- Blancpain
May 15, 2011,09:57 AM
Basel 2011 Novelty report Blancpain
by Marcus Hanke
So
different can impressions be: At the sight of this year’s Basel
novelties, my valued friend Magnus Bosse, long-time Blancpain intimate
with many insights into the company’s traditions and decisions, lamented
about a “swan song” of the well-known brand. Uninspired, techno-affine
approach, no consistency - these are but a few of the conclusions drawn
by Magnus and his co-author Oliver from the most recent launches by
Blancpain.
For
me, who had only superficial contact with Blancpain in the past, the
issue appeared completely different: in the last few years, I had
considered many of the novelties to be after quick and cheap effects,
but this year, the brand surprised me very positively with the beauty
and complexity of so many new pieces; maybe, because the PR department
had not done much to prepare the public in advance.
I do not feel
competent enough to clear that contradiction, for Magnus’ knowledge and
experience with Blancpain is too large to challenge. Consequently, I
underline that the subsequent statements on Blancpain’s novelties do
purely reflect my personal opinion, leaving it to the reader to draw her
or his own conclusions. I also want to point out that there are many
overlaps between my article and those by Magnus and Oliver, regarding
the pictures of various watches. However, there are a few here that are
missing in their article, and many of those shown by them are missing
here. Below the line, Blancpain fans thus have more stuff to read and to
look at ...
The technical highlight of this year’s collection is
part of the Villeret series. The “Demi-Fuseau Horaire” is one of the
very rare two-timezones-watches, permitting to adjust the second time
zone to half hour increments. The original plan of the global time zone
system envisaged 24 time zones with a full hour difference between them.
This is how most mechanical time zone watches work, permitting
adjustments only in steps of full hours. However, there are some states
which do not respect the wonderfully planned system, choosing a national
time that differs a half an hour only from the neighbouring time zones.
The reasons for this decision are various, sometimes based on national
or political emotions, sometimes on practical considerations.
The
most important case of such states is India, but there are others, such
as the republic of Venezuela, which changed its time by half an hour
only a few years ago.
Visiting these areas is always a problem
for wearers of mechanical timezone watches, but now Blancpain presents a
beautiful watch from the Villeret series, offering help.
Two
versions of the Demi-Fuseau Horaire are offered, equipped with different
automatic movements: The first variant has a movement with 72 hours of
power reserve, available in a 40 mm red gold case only. The dial of this
variant appears at first sight to be a guilloche on silver, but in fact
is made from embossed opaline.
The
local time can be adjusted by means of the crown in half hour
increments, the home or reference time remains unchanged and is
displayed in a small separate dial at 12. The crown features an
integrated pusher, serving to choose the setting mode: local time or
date. A small pointer at 4 informs about the preset crown mode. At 9, we
find a beautifully executed day-night-indicator for the reference time.
Typically
for the Villeret series, the hour markers are applied as golden Roman
numerals. A small gripe I have with all Villeret watches, but especially
with this, otherwise so practical timepiece, is the lack of luminous
mass, offering a certain legibility at night. The design of the
skeletonised feuille hands would not even need a change, nor would the
luminous mass compromise the watch’s overall appearance. The caseback
consists of a solid gold lid that can be opened, to reveal the
beautifully finished movement behind a sapphire crystal.
The
second version of this practical watch has a very exclusive automatic
movement with a power reserve of no less than eight days. Since the
timezone mechanics is identical with that of the previously presented
watch, the dial layout is identical as well. Nevertheless, the
difference between the two models is quickly noticed: the eight days
variant has a larger case (42 mm vs. 40 mm), and - above all - a
stunning white enamel dial with printed Roman numerals. Additionally,
this variant is offered not only in red, but also in 18k white gold.
The next Villeret model I want to show is also a
new development and a very practical novelty: an annual calendar with
second time zone. The indication windows of the calendar, which has to
be manually adjusted only from 28/29th of February to March 1, are
placed on the right side of the dial, and are changed by means of the
crown and two correctors under the lugs at 1 and 5.
For
the display of a second timezone, the changed local time can be set on
the main hands via the crown in hourly increments. the small 24 hours
subdial at 8 remains to show the reference or home time. This watch,
too, would gain some practical value with a bit of luminous mass on the
hands.
The “Villeret Quantième Annuel GMT” is available in a red
or white gold case with a diameter of 40 mm, powered by a self-winding
movement with a power reserve of 72 hours.
A
very special watch is the strictly limited Villeret “Grande
Décoration”, which at first sight offers a very plain dial in white or
black enamel and two hands only. First indication of its uniqueness is
the large diameter of 45mm. Upon turning the watch, we can see that the
handwound movement’s bridges are decorated all over by hand engraved
motifs from different places.
Every
one of the only five pieces, that are produced annually, shows its own
motif: three are reserved for Asia, with depictions from Hong Kong,
China and Japan. Two other watches show landmarks from Paris and
Switzerland.
My
personal highlight from the Villeret-collection is the “Equation
marchante”, which is known already since a while. This timepiece
features an astronomical complication: a perpetual calendar, combined
with the display of the real solar time, as opposed to the common mean
civil time, based on the time zone system, and shown by all “normal”
watches. Additionally, the watch indicates the deviation of the real
solar time from that shown by sundials, the cause of this being the
elliptical shape of Earth’s orbit around the Sun. As a result, the
distance of Earth from Sun is varying over the year, as is the Earth’s
orbital speed. I know that equation displays do not have any practical
value today, but they are still popular complications, mostly combined
with a perpetual calendar.
The 2011 vintage of this great watch has a slightly enlarged case, and a beautifully finished white enamel dial.
Note the tiny outlines of Eurasia being engraved onto the bridge above the mainspring barrel!
While
its main mechanism isn’t absolutely fresh, the following watch can
nonetheless considered as new: the gorgeous minute repeater, combined
with the flying carousel that is unique to Blancpain, issued in the Le
Brassus line. The “Carrousel Répétition Minute”, limited to ten pieces
only, was originally launched with a handwinding movement, but is now
presented powered by a skeletonised and hand engraved automatic
movement. The dial is reduced to a mere ring, bearing the applied hour
markers, thus permitting the view into the complex mechanism.
The
true technical innovation, however, is the safety mechanism, that
separates the repeater mechanism from the time setting train, as soon as
it is activated. This avoids one of the most serious risks for the
mechanism: too often, people try to change the time, while the
repeater’s gear is still interacting, causing immediate and very
expensive damage. With the decoupling mechanism, Blancpain has made a
big step towards making repeaters suitable for everyday use.
My
next chapter will cover another Blancpain line, the L-evolution. When I
had been confronted with this series for the first time, two or three
years ago, I think, I was at first shocked by the rather brute design.
Especially the overdimensioned luminous Roman numerals at 3 and 9
appeared to have originated in a pretzel bakery rather than a watch
manufactory. All in all, I could not help but have an impression of
coarseness.
This is not the case with the following watch, that
is offered since a few months already, but that is absolutely
breathtaking every time I see it: the L-evolution “Carrousel Saphir”
embedded its complete handwinding movement with the carousel-tourbillon
into bridges made from sapphire, letting it appear floating weightlessly
within its case, that is also transparent and permits to look at the
movement from the sides.
(HD available when opened in YouTube)
The
last big novelty is also part of the L-evolution series, the tourbillon
with big date. The massive watch with a diameter of 43.5 mm is offered
in white or red gold. It leaves a very modern impression, and is
flawlessly executed. Optical counterweight of the tourbillon at 12 is
the partially skeletonised big date mechanism with two disks at 6. The
watch’s really uniqueness, though, is seen on the back: since there was
no space for the power reserve display at the front, and an integration
into a movement bridge would have left it often obstructed by the
winding rotor, Blancpain’s developers simply placed it in the middle of
the oscillating mass itself.
The whole system is supported in a way that
keeps the orientation of the small power reserve dial always the same,
regardless of the spinning rotor’s position. The arbor for the power
reserve display has been led through the rotor’s central axle, with the
power then being led through a set of intermediary wheels. When the
watch is being wound, the small hand is moving until it hits the stop
and marks full tension of the mainspring. Further winding will then turn
the complete power reserve dial, and power release makes the hand move
down on the scale. It is an absolutely fascinating and elaborate
complication.
Another new watch in the L-evolution series is the model with the big date at 6:
Overall, my personal impression of this year’s
Blancpain novelties was that the brand puts much effort into innovation.
For me, not only the new mechanisms, but also the facelifts of various
lines, like that of the Villeret series, for example, look very
coherent. However, only future will show if the watches presented here
really are part of the brand’s “swan song”, or of a thorough renovation.
Basel 2011 Novelty report Blancpain by Marcus Hanke So different can impressions be: At the sight of this year’s Basel novelties, my valued friend Magnus Bosse, long-time Blancpain intimate with many insights into the company’s traditions and decisions, l...
If I wore a tie each day... in a professional/ casually-formal setting, I think these watches would not only be beautiful, but very useful, easy to read, and convey a great sense of good taste. Sometimes I wish I was a more formal person, just to wear suc...