Marcus Hanke
[PuristSPro Moderator]
11515
Baselworld 2012 - PuristSPro report: Bell & Ross
by foversta
The 2012 edition of Baselworld was very active for Bell & Ross,
so active that the fuses had just been blown when I visited the booth.
Hopefully, we could find a place with lights in order to be able to
shoot pics of this new collection.
We can split it
into 4 parts:
- Flight instruments
-
Military
- Complications
- Slight evolutions of
existing models.
Let's start with the flight
instruments.
These watches follow the
same footprints than the Radar did before: they are inspired by flight
instruments to propose unusual time displays. I will not tell you that
these watches are "innovative" because, at the end of the day, their
movements remain classic. But they take advantage of a clever design to
create a special atmosphere giving the feeling to have a true instrument
on the wrist.
The 3 new watches in this line share
in common the use of the BR01 case (46mm) made of SS with black PVD
finish and of the ETA calibers (ETA 2892 for the Horizon and the Turn
Coordinator and ETA 2896 for the Altimeter). Each of them is sold in LE
of 999 pieces.
First novelty is the BR01 Horizon. Its reference
instrument is the artificial horizon. It is a very sober and pure watch,
I would say a very graphic one, a true designer achievement. But
frankly speaking, I was not seduced by it. I found it too simple for a
46mm watch and moreover, not so legible due to the confusion brought by
the hand counterweight and the strong presence of the bridge for raised
dial.
I
was more convinced by the BR01
Altimeter and its big date display. I found the
dial more balanced and more suitable to the large size of the
BR01.
Last one is the BR01 Turn Coordinator. This
watch is of course a new way to re-use the Radar formula. But this time,
only the upper side of the dial is visible. It surprises a lot at the
beginning but the design works pretty well. If you are not shocked by
the lower side of the dial which is totally motionless, this watch may
seduce you by its worthy interpretation of the Turn Coordinator
Instrument.
A lot of novelties were unveiled in the
Military line, I propose to browse them.
First of
all, a new material is joining the party: Argentium. Argentium is a silver alloy, almost
pure (960/1000) which preserves the stability of the
material.
Argentium was used in two
contextes:
- first for an evolution of the WW1 watch which becomes with
its Argentium case smaller (41mm) and more elegant thanks to the use of
silver or ruthenium dials. I have the feeling that these watches are
still under creation process as the dials didn't have the same lay-out:
as you can see it, small second subdial is much larger with the
ruthenium dial watch than with the other one. So expect some changes
here, that's my feeling.
- second for a striking pocket watch. Yes, I
didn't make a mistake: Bell&Ross unveiled this year a striking
pocket watch. It is not a surprise for me because I knew that Carlos
Rosillo was fascinated by these old pocket watches. The use of Argentium
has a positive impact on the striking performance of the watch. i would
not say that the sound is purer but at least, it is louder. The PW1 5
minutes Repeater (and not Minutes repeater as I often read) houses an
Unitas based movement and the 5 minutes Repeater module coming from
Dubois-Depraz. This module is well-known because I already saw and heard
it in Nivrel or Edox watches.
I find that this watch is a nice
evolution of the PW1 and moreover, its silver dial makes it more
elegant. Striking mechanism is launched thanks to the trigger located
left side of the case. Case diameter remains at
49mm.
The other main watch
which was presented in the Military line was this Monopusher chronograph
available in two versions: ivory dial with blued hands or black dial
with luminous hands. Chronograph module comes from Dubois-Depraz. My fav
version is the ivory one, the other one being not very
surprising. Case diameter is
45mm.
But the star of the show was
without any doubt the WW2 Bomber
Regulator. This huge (49mm!) watch is inspired by a bomber
navigator as we can guess it with the case shape and the dial lay-out.
Automatic movement comes (again) from Dubois-Depraz. Bell & Ross
designers worked a lot on the details of the WW2 like the grey PVD
finish of the case, the sand colored coating of the indexes and figures,
the calfskin strap...
The movement was assembled
upside-down what led to two positive points. First one is the crown
location, on the left side of the watch. Due to the case diameter, a
position on the right side would have become too bothering for the
comfort on the wrist. Second one is the small seconds subdial located on
the upper side of the dial... like a true regulator requires it. This
watch, due to its design, to its inspiration, to its radical side is
maybe the best Bell&Ross since a long time. Comfort is
surprisingly good due to the flexibility of the lugs. You have to
consider that the wearability of this watch is similar to a 44/45mm one
if I wish to sum up in a few words.
We visit now the opposite side of the
collection (even if we stay in the military atmosphere)with the WW1 Heures Sautantes in PG or
Platinum.
If you've known Bell&Ross for a
long time, you may recognize the complications which were developped by
Vincent Calabrese several years ago. Even if the watches find
again their original "leaf hands" (but with a thinner and longer shape),
cases were enlarged and redesigned (42mm). Dial lay-outs remain the
same but the enlarged cases give more room for the data
display.
Platinum version (LE of 25 watches) uses two
windows (hours and power reserve) while PG version (LE of 50 watches)
gets a power reserve display by hand. Platinum version has a more
contemporary style while the PG one is more
classic.
I really find these watches very nice but I
still have in my mind the doubts about the realibility of the jumping
hours mechanism. Let's hope that it was improved because it was not the
best asset of the initial watches.
We finish the report with the evolution brought to some existing
models. The points which have to be underlined are the
introduction of a metal
bracelet for the Vintage collection further to requests
coming from clients.
You will also notice the
new black bezel with
numerals which gives a more sportive touch to the Vintage
chronograph.
And the Vintage collection also
got its own Phantom
with all-black 3 hands and chronograph
watches.
My report is over now and as you could see it, the
2012 collection was containing a lot of ideas and was pretty large. Of
course, Bell&Ross keeps following tracks they perfectly know
with these military and instrumental atmospheres. Recipes work well so
there is no reason to change them. The horological contents remain quite
basic even if some good surprises can be found. But on the overall
basis, I have the feeling that Bell&Ross is a brand on the move,
with a constant will to be close to its customers and to bring
evolutions in the collections.
I would like to thank a
lot the Bell&Ross team for the warm welcome.
Fr.Xavier
Baselworld 2012 - PuristSPro report: Bell & Ross
