Marcus Hanke
[PuristSPro Moderator]
11515
Baselworld 2012: PuristSPro report Harry Winston
by foversta
After 4 days in Basel, I'm very happy to propose you my Harry Winston
report. This report is a wrap-up of the novelties which were unveiled
during the Fair but of course, I will come back to these watches later
with dedicated posts.
The good point about Harry
Winston is the yearly presence in the collection of one of the most
awaited watches: Opus. But we don't have to forget that the new
collection offers us a wide range of novelties with more affordable
prices or playing a different tune.
And this year, it
was not so easy to forget it because Opus 12 is a truly
amazing timepiece. On the other hand, it would have been a pity to not
have a closer look on the other watches because Harry Winston has
managed with these 2012 novelties to reinforce its
collection.
Another point I would like to underline
is that other watches will be presented during this year. Expect some
surprising surprises but I can't tell you more for the
moment.
Let's focus on this Baselworld 2012
novelties.
But before doing this, we need to enter
the
booth!
I would like to start... with a watch which was presented at the end of
the previous year. I haven't had the opportunity to show
you live pics before so here they come.
The Ocean Sport Automatic is one
of the two "Men's" watches of the Ocean Sport permanent collection. If
features a 44mm Zalium case, a large display of the date and a quite
unusual dial design with a sort of mesh located left side of the dial.
We obviously find again the features of the case of the Ocean Sport
collection.
This watch is not my cup of tea due to
its large size for a three-hands watch even if, thanks to the efficiency
of the folding clasp and of the rubber strap, it is quite comfortable
on the wrist.
I
decided to speak about it because it gives me the opportunity to
present you the Ocean Sport
Chronograph LE.
This LE of 300 pieces
features the 44mm Zalium case and has a thickness of
14,8mm.
If you remember well, the "permanent" Ocean
Sport Chronograph uses a skeletonized dial in order to propose an
original design in the Harry Winston context.
The LE
houses the same movement (ETA base + DD module) and so gets the same
dial lay-out. But what a change of design! Forget the skeletonized dial
and let's discover a new dial closer to the spirit of the Ocean Sport
Automatic. Strangely, I would have consider this one as the permanent
watch and the other one as the LE. In a few words, the opposite of what
Harry Winston did.
Anyway, this original dial made
of sharp parts, with volumes and open sections works well in this
context and I find it more coherent than the other one. I was very
convinced by this chronograph and despite the non-exclusive movement, it
was a pleasure to play with the pushers thanks to their
shapes.
If we forget a few seconds Opus 12, the main event
for Harry Winston was the presentation of the new Premier case thanks to
the latest version of the Premier Excenter Time
Zone.
The new 41mm Premier case is
"softer" than the previous one and I consider it as a good achievement
as an update. It stills contains all that define the Premier case (the
arch-shaped elements, the prominent lugs) but in a quieter context. The
question is: doesn't this case lose too much personality by getting
closer to the new Midnight one? It is a difficult question... but I'm
sure that the previous case needed an update to meet a new success: it
was becoming a bit old-fashioned. So at the end, I think that
this new version is a good improvement.
The first
watch which uses it is the iconic Excenter Time Zone: you won't be lost
by it, we find again the classic dial lay-out with its clever second
timezone retrograde hand. Obviously, movement remains the same, i.e GP
base + module coming from Agenhor.
The ratio diameter
(41mm)/thickness (10,9mm) is high enough to give a slender side even if
the Midnight collection is better on this topic.
The Premier
Excenter Time Zone is available in PG or WG cases with anthracite or
silver dials. Each version has its own charm and I was seduced by their
overall elegancy and the dial finishings.
We
stay with the Premier case with the Premier Ladies 36mm.
These
Ladies watches are available in WG or PG cases with shimmering white or
rose MOP dials and with hour-markers set with 12 diamonds.
You
will notice that the arch-shaped elements are more visible here than
with the new case of the Time Zone.
These Premier
Ladies 36mm are powered with a quartz movement or an automatic one. The
automatic watch is thicker (7,2mm vs 6,7mm) than the quartz
one.
But the most charming timepieces were the Premier Feathers. We stay in
the same context (Premier 36mm case in WG or PG) but we change the
dials. And what a change!
The 4 dials are decorated
with marquetery of pheasant or peacock feathers. They require a lot of
skills and a lot of time (around 7 hours) to be made. Due to the fragile
side of the main material, this is a truly delicate technique and it is
the reason why Nelly Saunier, a true virtuose in her art, was in charge
of this difficult task.
The result is really
impressive, a mix of beauty, fragility and
delicacy.
Perfect on a lady's wrist!
And now... let's speak about the Opus
12!
There are so many things to say
about it that I will quickly come back to its main features in a
specific post.
How can we say after a first
analysis?
Aesthetically speaking, Opus 12 is unique.
The watch doesn't have a true dial: the parts dedicated to time display
draw the design of the front side of Opus 12. There are a lot of clever
details which don't appear at first glance. Let's take the second hand:
it is located on the foreground. Look at the hours and 5 minutes
displays: they are both peripherical. Look at the main indexes: they use
the twelve letters of "Harry Winston". Look at the very sober
power reserve indicator, almost hidden in the center of the
watch.
Opus 12 redesigns the concept of the
"wandering hours". This time, the hour really wanders around the dial.
It does a 13/12 revolution. It is a true joy for the eyes as this
revolution requires 17 seconds to be done. Opus 12 is a bit a visual... 5
minutes repeater.
Of course, 46mm is a large
diameter. But it is not shocking due to this requirement of the time
display. The watch has to be big to make enough space for the rotating
elements and the central functions.
On the back,
movement proposes us an unusual lay-out in the Harry Winston context. It
is a bit a 3/4 circular main plate. It is actually made of 3 different
bridges even if 3 curvy lines gives the feeling that 6 bridges are
visible. The balance wheel is large (14mm) and the frequency of the
movement (2,5hz) give the proof that even if the innovating time display
was the main objective, chronometry was not forgotten. Opus 12 movement
uses two barrels, one dedicated to the functioning, one to the display.
Two differentials are implemented to put into harmony these two
separated barrels and to get a reliable power reserve
display.
In a few words, Emmanuel Bouchet and his
team did a tremendous job with Opus 12. Because I have to tell you what
impressed me a lot: several watches were available and working during
the Fair. My 6th sense tells me that Opus 12 will be an easier watch to
be produced. A clever and efficient
conception.
And of course please find below the movie to see how the time
display works:
With Opus 12, I write the last words of this report but again, I will come back to these watches. So stay tuned!
I would like to thank a lot to the whole Harry Winston team for the warm welcome during the 4 days.
Fr.Xavier
