Baselworld/SIHH

 Therefore the only wholly new model is the Grand Chronographe Régulateur which will be made as a limited edition of eight pieces each in white and rose gold, and three piece unique in platinum. This is possibly the breakthrough product for the Montblanc Villeret line.

Existing watches in the range, no doubt beautifully finished, are not much more than that, beautifully finished watches. None of them offer any truly special complications or designs, except maybe for the tourbillion, but all of them are expensive. Not overpriced in relation to the level of finish, but expensive for a Montblanc watch – that prevalent perception is the chief obstacle to the success of this range.

Unfinished prototype cal. 16-30 of the Grand Chronographe Regulateur 

The Grand Chronographe Régulateur is a move in the right direction. It is different enough from other high-end chronographs such that it can stand on its own; if presented correctly, it will be seen as a unique regulator chronograph rather than a Montblanc watch. Montblanc Villeret needs to continue down this path of creating watches that are out of the ordinary if it is to eradicate the ‘expensive Montblanc’ perception.

Two rose gold variants of the Grand Chronographe Regulateur

 As its name implies, this watch is a regulator style monopusher chronograph with second time zone indicator, day-night display and power reserve. Displayed on a large arc, the power reserve display is actually two hands that effectively also functions as a quality of wind indicator. When the watch is sufficiently wound, the shorter red power reserve hand remains hidden under the larger one and moves in sync, thus only one hand is seen. But once the power reserve is depleted to a certain point, the larger hand reaches the end of its track and remains there, while the smaller red hand emerges and continues towards zero as a warning that the watch needs to be wound.

In white gold

Its dial styling is novel but retains traditional elements like guilloche and blue steel for some reassurance. Dial quality is excellent, they are solid gold with hand-applied guilloche; the unique pieces in platinum feature the addition of mother-of-pearl inlay. Best of all, the ridiculous “Pure Mecanique Horlogerie” text that afflicted the dials of the first series of Villeret watches has finally been banished.

Grand Chronographe Regulateur platinum piece unique with mother-of-pearl dial inlay

Montblanc deserves praise for this watch, I love it. But it is tragically large. The case is a whopping 47 mm in diameter. If Montblanc Villeret used its smaller chronograph calibre instead of the 38.4 mm movement in the 47 mm case, the resulting watch would be perfect.