Baselworld/SIHH

SJX
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*** Panerai

I will begin with the comical Egiziano before discussing the proper watches unveiled at SIHH. It is a limited edition of only 300 pieces (whew) and is 60 mm in diameter like the original, but it is cased in titanium whereas the original was steel. And the Egiziano re-issue has a movement too by the way, the 8-days cal. P2002.

Panerai says this is intended as a historical tribute, for Panerai fans who want a feel of the famous Egiziano; unofficially they admit this is difficult to wear. But the depressing fact is some bright sparks out there with normal sized wrists will still be wearing one, and some of them will be posting wristshots on a forum somewhere asking if it looks a little large on their wrist.

Another historical reissue presented was the PAM28, a remake of the A- and B-series PVD-coated power reserve models with hobnail dials. This remake is DLC-coated and has slight changes to the dial, namely less text, but is otherwise nearly identical. 1000 pieces will be made.

Each year Panerai unveils a Regatta watch and this year’s 500-piece edition is a 44 mm rattrapante chronograph in a DLC-coated case. Inside lies a Valjoux 7750-based movement with two column wheels, I expect this movement comes from La Joux-Perret. Like many Panerais including most of those launched this year, this is a handsome watch that looks good on the wrist.

Also unveiled was the Luminor Chrono Daylight. Originally a limited edition for Sylvester Stallone made for the tunnel-disaster film Daylight, the name has since been applied to various chronographs, the latest of which is this blue dial titanium version. This is available on strap as the PAM326 or on titanium bracelet as the PAM327.

Several changes were made to Luminor Marina Automatic models. The 44 mm tobacco-dial titanium version is now available on a matching bracelet as the PAM296.

The 40 mm steel automatic PAM 298 available on two different bracelets, either the older titanium and steel bracelet or the newer all steel bracelet. I have no idea how this is different from the previous 40 mm automatic in steel, I can’t remember what I was told and the press kit isn’t clear.

Automatic on steel and titanium bracelet 

On all steel bracelet 

Now we move on to the Manifattura collection of watches using in-house movements. A new group of calibres was presented, the P.9000, P.9001 and P.9002, all of which have three day power reserve and zero-reset hack function for the seconds hand. These movements also have bidirectional winding using a V-shaped arm which reminds me of Seiko’s Magic Lever mechanism.

All new models using the P.9000 series movements are presented in 47 mm 1950-style cases with flat crystals instead of the domed crystal of the 1950. These watches will be the entry level of the Manifattura collection.

A subtle but well thought out change for the P.9000 watches are two notches on the rear of the case at the lugs.

New P.9000 family Manifattura cases on the left, regular cases on the right 

Bracelets have a corresponding extension on the end links which gives the bracelet a much better fit than before.

The basic movement of the line is the P.9000, an automatic with date. This is used in the PAM312 and PAM328, which are strap and bracelet versions respectively of the time-only 1950 automatic.

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